Intempo Gx 01 Internet Radio Instructions

:lease: I need help with choosing a new power supply for my internet radio which won t interfere with and give feedback into the speakers. Current power is a DYS switching mode power supply Model dys18-090150w-3 Output 9.0v - 1.5a 13.5va max The current power supply has packed up. Recieved an Intempo GX-01. The radio is amazing and i have hooked it up using a LAN cable. However, the radio doesn't seem to connect.

HiyaJust wondered if there were any techie bods out there who may have a clue what is wrong with myI've had it just over 2 yrs(it's out of warranty by 1 month!) and to be honest haven't used it very much but now it won't work. When i plug it in, even before i turn it on on the front it starts whistling from the speakers. It's not like a 'static' whistle, just a whistle iykwim?If i attach my ipod i just get hiss out of the speakers.Is it goosed?Been in touch with Intempo but they have no ideas.Thanks. I, too, was having the same problems as many people have had and was ready to chuck the thing out, until i came across this thread. I bought mine just over 2 years ago and had noticed that about 6 months ago, that it was becoming temperamental. The ipod had to be installed at an angle to make the connection, the DAB and FM radio functions only worked sporadically, until giving up altogether.Following the excellent advice and information from Beetleseb, Robbo36 and Chris E, I obtained the replacement part and soldering equipment on ebay and despite having very little experience with electronics, i was quickly able to carry out the repair.I can confirm that the RDI is now in perfect working order and I am very pleased.Thanks again guys!

Web viewer for samsung dvr for mac. Despite having very little experience with electronics, i was quickly able to carry out the repair.' I too have a failed RDi, and am hoping the same fix will work for me. I admit that I also have little experience with electronics, and have never soldered before, but this doesn't look to me like a quick job for a rookie! In a guide I looked at it says to remove the old capacitor with wire cutters. That sounds great were it not for the fact that, in this case, the offending capacitor is tightly surrounded by other bits and pieces (sod's law in full effect.) and so completely inaccessible to wire cutters.So.

Do I need to be brutal and remove other bits to open up a path to this capacitor, or is it a case of being brutal and pulling it out with pliers or something? This is a great thread, a textbook case of spending pennies to save pounds and one in the eye for cynical obsolescence.If you can, it's wise to use a 105 degree C rated capacitor in this case, rather than an ordinary duty 85 deg.

Type, they're worked hard in this application and can run hot- very likely to be the reason for their expiring in the first place. There's a general industry trend towards 105 deg.

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Types, so they should be easy to find and the pace of component development is such that a current 105 deg. 16V type is likely to be similarly sized, possibly even smaller, than an 85 deg.10V type of just a few years ago- a bit manufacturer-dependent, though.Maplin stock high temperature types, code DT69A= 1000uF 16V 105 deg. I get told off by snooty professional colleagues for recommending them (I'm a techie by trade) but, heck, they have a presence in many towns, their one-off component prices aren't outrageous and you can have a good look at what you're getting, if not at the shop, then on the website.Keep those RDI's going!

Found this thread yesterday when my Intempo RDI died. I haven’t used a soldering iron in years, but after a quick trip to Maplins for a new capacitor (and a soldering iron and some solder), I followed the instructions in the posts above and now it’s working perfectly.It’s important to read all the info in the posts above, but to summarize:A capacitor on the power supply unit seems prone to failure, possibly because it gets so hot. All you need to fix the unit is a new capacitor, a soldering iron, some solder and a screwdriver.I would recommend taking the unit apart and identifying the capacitor you need before buying one.1.Unplug from mains and disconnect power lead.2.Remove speaker cover on front of RDI – this should just pop off. It’s held by eight or so connectors, but as long as you don’t bend it too much, you should have no problem. This will reveal 8 deep screw holes.3.Remove the front panel. This is glued in place. You’ll need a thin screwdriver blade or a sharp knife to slide under the panel and cut through the glue.

It’s easy to scratch the RDI or break the front panel so take your time. Once it’s off you’ll see it was only held in place by a few blobs of glue.4.Behind the front panel are 4 further screw holes. Unscrew all 12 screws, keep them safe, and you can open up the RDI.5.Be careful because the back part of the unit (with a speaker and the power supply unit) is connected to the front by a couple of wires. These are relatively easy to remove – just pull the connectors off the circuit board in the front part of the unit.6.The power supply unit is the small circuit board in the back part of the unit, held in place by four screws. There are also connectors from the mains connection to the PSU, and from the PSU to the body of the RDI which you need to remove. They should pull off quite easily.

All the connectors you have removed are different, so there shouldn’t be a problem putting them back afterwards, but you should note where the wires go, so that when you put the unit back together, you don’t trap anything in the wrong place7.Once you have removed the PSU, you can find the dead capacitor. There are a number of black cylindrical capacitors with grey writing and silver tops. The one you want measures 10mm in diameter and is 15mm tall. It should say 10v 1000µf and XL (M)105°C. The circuit board is quite densely packed, so it’s not that easy to identify – it’s next to a yellow coil.

ChrisE above has posted a picture to help.8.The easiest way to remove the capacitor is to turn the PSU upside down, and with a soldering iron, melt the solder holding it to the board. Once I did this, I found I could push the legs of the capacitor up with the soldering iron, and then use a pair of pliers to gently remove the capacitor.9.Take the old capacitor to Maplins and ask for one just like it – they have 16 volt and not 10 volt, but that should work fine. Try getting one with the same temperature rating (105°C) as Thirst4Know says above. (Maplin code DT69A: 1000uF 16V).10.If you removed the old capacitor carefully, you should be able to poke the new capacitor’s legs through the holes on the circuit board. Make sure it goes the same way round as the old one (the marking on the circuit board should help)11.Solder the legs in place on the printed circuit board side, clip off the excess legs, and you’re nearly there. I have always been terrible at soldering, but it’s difficult to get it completely wrong.12.Now put everything back together – screw the power supply unit back in (this can be quite fiddly - you might need tweezers, a magnetic screwdriver or a small child to help you), reconnect it, then connect the back part to the front circuit board and close up the unit. It shouldn’t take too much force unless you have trapped a wire somewhere.

Now put back all 12 screws. The speaker cover should pop back with no problem, and the face plate should still be sticky with old glue and will hold by itself.13.Plug it in, switch it on and be amazed that it works.14.Feel absurdly proud of yourself for finding this thread and following the simple instructions.15.Ponder how beetleseb figured out the solution in the first place.